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Beaufort, NC. The day after we arrived in Beaufort the weather got bad - a
front moving in that lasted several days. Rain - Fog - Cold. This was the
time we had to go to Atlanta to work, so it worked out. The day I got back
the weather was still bad, but by 1pm that day the sun was out and I moved
the boat on.
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Lisa took shore leave and went back to Ohio to tend to things
for a while. This means I'm single handing the boat on this leg -- Probably
a good thing so I get to know this boat much better and can handle her by
myself. The bad thing is that Lisa's not with me. She'll come back for the
last leg of the trip.
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Got back to Beaufort Dec 2nd and the clouds are breaking up
and sun coming out!
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Passing under the US 70 Bridge between Morehead City and
Beaufort NC. This puts me on the ocean side to go out the inlet in the
morning. Dolphins out in the river today.
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The US Coast Guard Station is at Morehead City, and they keep
a HUGE cutter there.
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On the dock at Morehead City Gulf Docks where I spent the night
after refueling, to head out into the ocean the next morning.
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Up before daybreak the next day, and head out the inlet for
an offshore crossing to Wrightsville Beach. Weather was great - with flat
seas. This boat - Idyl Time - was with me for the next several days.
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Couldn't have asked for a better day to be out in the ocean
to cross to Wrightsville Beach. Seas less than one foot, sunshine - Great!
Once I left Beaufort NC inlet it was about 70 some miles to the Wrightsville
Beach Inlet.
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Entering the inlet
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Got Fuel at the Bridge Tender Marina, then went back and
anchored off the ICW. I was going to keep going further south but it took so
long going through the no wake areas, and then getting fuel, that it was
already after 4pm and it gets dark about 5 - so just anchored a couple miles
away.
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Anchored by about 5pm with a couple other boats in
Wrightsville Beach..
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It's Sunset WINE TIME!
Weighing anchor the next morning was a DIFFERENT story. I had a DEVIL of a
time pulling the anchor up. Thought maybe I was just getting old and out of
shape, so struggled and got it up to the roller. Turns out there was a line
or cable on the bottom and I pulled the ENTIRE THING up by hand to the boat
- anchor and all. I freed it from the anchor and let it drop back down, and
went on my way. At least not as old and weak as I thought I might be
getting.
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OK - Dec 4 - Fishing boats are going out already this
morning.
Time for me to move on toward Myrtle Beach SC.
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The ICW traffic starts just after sun up. Idyl Time passing
me as I fix my belt problem. He called back to ask if I was OK and needed
any help.
Lots more Dolphins today.
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BUMMER! - Alternator Belt started squealing this
morning. At first I pulled over and anchored to tighten the belt. A while
later it did it AGAIN - so I went adrift and quickly jumped down to tighten
it. A while later it STARTED AGAIN! This time I found a good cove to anchor
out of the traffic, and then just changed out the belt for a new one. That
solved the problem.
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The BIG traffic passing me coming down the Cape Fear River.
The current was REALLY STRONG. Although the boat was doing about 7.5 knots
(almost 9 mph) through the water, it was only doing about 4.3 knots over the
bottom. WAY SLOW.
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Shrimp boats now starting to appear along the waterway.
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Here's an interesting sequence of photos for those of you
that have never seen this. This is a bridge that "floats" on the water, on a
barge. When it opens the entire structure swings around on the water (pulled
by cables in the water). Watch this sequence of photos! The house is where
the bridge tender sits to drive the thing.
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Let's GO!
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No Drunk Driving Laws Required - Problem is self eliminating!
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BIG Tide changes here in SC.
(Photo cover to Barry Manilow's "Love on the Rocks"?)
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The last hour today to Myrtle Beach was a REAL KILLER with the Sun directly
in my eyes on the water. This bridge (which the photo shows better than I
could see) had a 30' vertical clearance. I only need 16.' to go under. I
could see the top of the bridge but not the rest, so I called the bridge
tender for an opening. She was nice about it, but informed me that she had
30' of clearance. BOY DID I SOUND STUPID!
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Finally arrive at the Barefoot Landings Docks in North
Myrtle Beach. The dockmaster lives on his boat here right by the office.
(When I was port Captain of the Marathon Yacht Club we lived on our boat at
the marina)
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M/V NOVA. I stayed here an extra day to get some laser work
done using their high speed internet connection. Never got off the boat for
all the restaurants/bars/shops.
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Dockmaster's boat (registered in the Bahamas) the morning of
the 6th as I depart.
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Here's the tower for the overhead Gondola on one of Myrtle
Beaches Golf Courses. It takes golfers over the ICW canal to the rest of the
course on the other side! My dad used to always come down here periodically
to play with friends.
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On down the ICW. This is much easier than going offshore in
the sense that the water is calm, but it's also a lot more work because you
have to be constantly paying attention. |
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Some NICE HOUSES here in Myrtle Beach on the waterway.
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I figured out finally how to have my "portable office" while
piloting down the waterway. One computer (front) is for navigation, and the
other (left) is for work. (Works only in calm water though)
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Work laptop strapped down.
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Navigational laptop mounted.
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The couple on this little sailboat "Seanne" was interesting -
Peter and his wife. It was so small (complete with outboard engine) that I
thought they were just day cruising along the waterway. Turns out he works for a ministry and
is delivering this boat for a church to a kid's camp down in Okeechobee
Florida from some place up Northeast. HE HAS TO SIT AT THE OUTBOARD TILLER ALL DAY
LONG TO STEER THIS BOAT FROM THE NORTH TO FLORIDA! Now that's commitment! On
this day he had the unfortunate occurrence of losing his wallet overboard -
$600 cash plus all his credit cards. They tried grappling it from the muck
16 feet down, but didn't work. Impressive Couple to do this.
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One of the typical swing bridges along the way (ones that I
have to have open to clear). |
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Lots of fishermen and hunters (look out the window) along the way - all dressed
WARMLY with face masks and hoods.
We're now getting into the Waccamaw River area north of Charleston SC. NICE
RIVER.
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Waccamaw River.
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Interesting that I have not seen one Alligator on this trip yet. - maybe too
cold yet. |
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The bridge - coming into Georgetown SC.
It's kind of gray, depressing, drizzly and chilly. At least it's not snowing
like it is in Columbus.
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This little space heater has REALLY HELPED all along this
trip. I run it right at the lower helm station as I go along to keep me warm
- especially great on the feet and legs! It's only after Beaufort SC that I
could stop using it.
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MV "Irresistible III" coming to the docks in Georgetown. We
shared Thanksgiving dinner with them at Dowry Creek up in NC. His wife has a
couple small dogs aboard. I said Hi to him again but I don't think he even
remembered me. Nice custom boat.
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Here in Georgetown there was another interesting couple in
the big sailboat behind me (no photo). He's Canadian and she's Mexican,
living in Cancun Mexico - on the boat. He bought this new (old) boat up in
Maine and is taking it to Cancun. The boat has a 75 ft Mast and draws 8 feet
of water! This makes it impossible to go the ICW route where fixed bridges
are only 65 ft tall and in many places there is only 6-8 feet of water under
your boat. He's had to slog it out offshore each day by himself (his wife
does not sail) and come in only at certain inlets. He had all kinds of
stories about misadventures they've had to go through so far - including
coast guard intervention when he was sinking. It makes me feel lucky.
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Leaving Georgetown Dec 7 (Pearl Harbor Day) headed for south
of Charleston SC. Sequence of photos is a nice sunrise down Winyah Bay.
(Just North of Charleston SC)
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This is one of the few ferry's of this type still running. It
takes cars across the narrow canal of the waterway, but it does it with
cables that are attached and pull the ferry back and forth.
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More and more Pelicans are now starting to show up. Dolphins
are also showing up everyday now, but I can't get photos of them with my
phone camera! Lots through the Santee Swamp area.
(Sandi Osher - do you remember that time you caught a Pelican on the
beach in Florida that had some plastic stuck in it's beak? We tried to free
it up and it BIT YOU in the process! - We did get it off though as I recall)
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Here I COME - Ready or NOT!
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OK glutton! - get that fish down your gullet. |
Dolphins messing with my brain! - I bet they think it's funny.
Was startled by the depthsounder today in a narrow channel as
I was talking to my dad on the cell phone. It was good weather and I had
12.5 feet of depth, and was right where I should be in the channel. All of a
sudden the depthsounder alarm started going off and showing I was in 4 ft of
water! (I run aground at about 3'). I quickly hung up, assessed the
situation and pulled back the throttles! It all looked OK to me, then the
sounder immediately went back to 12 feet - no where in between - just either
4' and then immediately 12 ft (like a quantum transitional level for the
laser guys reading this). OK - I passed it off as a fluke. THEN IT HAPPENED
AGAIN - and SEVERAL TIMES AGAIN. It got me going and then I REMEMBERED. As
Capt Ron says in the movie: "Quite Frankly Boss, I've had this problem
before". -- It's the DOLPHINS Playing around with me!
They had been playing all around the boat and I didn't think anything of it,
but this has happened many times in the past - I just forget. The sonar
transducer on the underside of the hull makes a clicking sound - you can
hear it if you swim under the boat - kind of like some of the dolphin clicks
- I don't know if they respond to that or not. For whatever reason they go
under there and swim under the transducer and set off the alarm - I'm
reading "Dolphin Depth" - not "Bottom Depth". I really think they play kind
of a version of "chicken" with each other. (although at my slow speed of
less than 10 mph they don't have to be too adept in order to be safe). The
propellers are spinning right behind the depthsounder. I think they go under
there and pace the boat, swimming just ahead of the spinning props kind of
like some dolphin game just for kicks, and take turns going in and out -
that's why the alarm goes off repeatedly. I've seen them do this on our bow
taking turns and I'll bet they're doing exactly the same thing in front of
my props.
Glad I can provide a little amusement for the Dolphins. :-)
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OK - since I'm on the boat by myself now - here's a
gratuitous
shot of me in the Saloon.
(No wonder I like boats!)
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One of the BIG Yachts from Charleston passing me in the ICW
at the Isle of Palms.
The Sun is out today so it's more cheerful - but breezy and a chilly 46
degrees at 8:40am. |
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More nice homes and lots of slow "no wake" zones at Isle of
Palms.
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Coming in to Charleston Harbor.
(Yes I know the photo is crappy - sorry. I only have my phone camera on this
leg). |
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A couple of the nice old mansions on the Battery -
Charleston's waterfront.
I passed on through Charleston and didn't stop there.
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I know the photo isn't all that great, but it's Spanish moss
hanging on the big old oaks. From the Waccamaw river on down to at least the
swamps of Georgia, the banks are lined with this big trees and hanging moss.
I like them, but I don't think Lisa does.
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Made it to Ross Marine about 10 miles south of Charleston for
the night. It's still dropping down into the 30s at night so I'm
reluctantly staying at Marinas so I can run my heaters! (Heard it got into
the 20's inland)
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Although there were other boats at this Marina, I was the
only PERSON there. Really quiet!
This was a REAL Boatyard - not a resort marina - and I usually like these
kinds of places best.
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One nice thing about being docked though, is that our
Satellite TV system will work (the boat holds steady). There is a system
that automatically compensates for the boat swinging at anchor (we had one
on Creative Touch), but we don't have one on this boat.
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Sunrise Dec 8th, leaving Ross Marine, headed for Beaufort
SC today.
(Note that there is a Beaufort NC (BOWfurt) and a Beaufort SC (BEWfurt)
It was tricky getting off the dock this morning by myself because I had a 1
knot current pushing me back into the pier - so can't release lines and then
jump on the boat. I figured it out OK and got off, even if it was a bit
jury-rigged to do it.
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This is the nautical chart on the computer, just to show you
what a MAZE it is back here in the low country! I don't know how you
could possibly do this without a chart (and GPS makes it easy), but a big
powerboat passed me, and then slowed to ask for directions on the radio. I
tried but there is NO POSSIBLE WAY to explain this without having a chart in
front of you to look at. Hope he did OK.
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Osprey Nest on top of one of the Daymarks. |
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OK - boating safety 101. Even I wear a lifejacket once in a while.
I had to decide what was prudent policy on this long solo
leg. The water was really cold and I wouldn't have survived long in my heavy
clothes if I went overboard, so I decided that when I was out on deck by
myself setting the anchor or lines, or if I had to go on the flybridge
offshore in rough weather, that I'd don my inflatable vest - which I did.
(Note - in my many years on the water I have fallen in and almost
drowned twice. (the boat was at the dock both times). My son Eric saved me
once and the other time, in cold water, at night, with heavy clothes and
sweater, I hit the 13' deep bottom three times before I decided this was my
last try or I was dead - I MADE IT! )
(At least I THINK I made it)
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Made it to Port Royal Landing Marina in Beaufort SC. (Remember - BEWfort) |
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This was the first time I stayed at this Marina in Beaufort
and I like it.
Every person working there is very friendly & helpful, the prices are very
reasonable, the facilities are clean and modern, they had a courtesy car to
loan, and their WiFi connection was good on the docks.
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I really like all the big old oak trees with hanging Spanish
Moss surrounding the place. |
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Port Royal Landing "Courtesy Car".
When you even have access to a courtesy car from a Marina
at all, it's generally an old beater "land boat" (which is OK and I
appreciate them when available). Port Royal though loaned me this brand new
F150 pickup truck as my loaner! I ran down to the grocery and West Marine
Boat store with it.
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Natural art on the tidal flats at low tide. |
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MV Nova on the Port Royal Landing Docks.
I fueled up here, did the calculations, and thought I'd
found the "magic" boat speed that DOUBLED my mileage!
I found out the next day though that the gas pump had just tripped off and
the port tank was still not full, so I re-topped at Skull Creek Marina in
Hilton Head.
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Many of the boats here in Beaufort were already decorated for Christmas. |
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Departing out of Beaufort SC Dec 9th. - Heading down the
river.
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This is the FIRST morning since the Chesapeake Bay where I
went up to the Flybridge to Pilot the boat because I WANTED TO - not because
I needed to. Temperatures were around 64 degrees at 6am this morning, and no
wind. This is very comfortable and I can steer from above. I did go back
down a while later though because the wind starts picking up and that makes
it a bit more chilly, but the weather is nice.
Notice the distinct Lack of a Coat, Ski Mask, Toboggan and Ear Muffs!
Just look at that subtle SMILE on my face. - aaaaahhhhhhhhhhhh
------
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I finally GOT A DOLPHIN ON MY CAMERA PHONE!
OK - I know it's not a good shot with my phone, but I've
been trying to trying to do this for several days now and this is the first
time I did it. There were lots more Dolphins around the boat today.
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MAJOR Fog banks were rolling in from the ocean today.
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I was feeding the Sea Gulls off the back of the boat today
underway.
I wish I could fly like them.
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OK - this is NOT my photo - but sure beats my crappy
camera phone shot.
BUT - this IS what Dolphins were doing today off my stern - repeatedly.
I've never seen them do this before around the boat. They frequently would
jump in the wake, but this was NOT in my wake waves, and they were coming
completely out of the water and kind of flicking their tales in the air.
Looked like they were having a grand time. It helped me have one too.
Maybe it was their way of both laughing at me and rewarding me for the stunt
they pulled on me the other day setting off my depthsounder alarm! I think
dolphins have a sense of humor.
(OK - my anthropomorphic analysis - but I really do believe they have a
sense of humor)
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OK - Look Closely - THIS IS MOON RIVER
"I'm crossing you in style --- some day --- "
(Yes - this is in Georgia and IS Moon River)
Check one more off my "bucket list" - crossing Moon River in Style.
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Shrimp boats were returning to port. |
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Anchored in Cedar Creek (middle of the marsh - nothing around
for MANY miles).
Dolphins were swimming around the creek as I set anchor, and pelicans all
over.
(Don't forget - you can go back to the main page on the Google
interactive map and see EXACTLY on satellite photos where these anchorages
are).
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Almost a Full Moon after crossing Moon River today!
This is the start of my three days in the wilderness.
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Dec 10, 2008 Departing Cedar Creek Anchorage.
Trying to get somewhere between Brunswick Ga and Amelia Island FL today
- in the back country to anchor.
Anchor was REALLY stuck in the muck this morning and had a very difficult
time getting it up - had visions of cutting the anchor rode and just
sacrificing the anchor, but finally overpowered it with the engines and got
it up - thick sticky mud and I had buried it deeply with the engines to set
it.
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The fog banks rolling in off the ocean were REALLY heavy
this morning.
(Kind of like the 70's movie "The FOG") |
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More commercial fishing boats out in the sound.
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Our Tax Dollars at work!
I really appreciate these guys in the USCG (Coast Guard) - setting
daymarks and navigational buoys to help me find my way through all these
mazes! Here they're pounding a piling into the bottom to erect a red daymark.
Appropriately the boat is named "HAMMER".
(Quick boat primer for landlubbers: - when coming inland from the sea -
hold the red marks to right and green to left. - RED RIGHT RETURNING!)
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I'm anchored in Shellbine Creek, off the Cumberland River,
behind Cumberland Island in South Georgia, with two other boats -- the
nearest one is the sailboat Cygnet which you'll see has MANY problems
tomorrow as storms pass through.
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Quiet night at anchor - waiting for the severe storms to pass
tomorrow.
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I'm anchored just north of Jacksonville, just to the east of
where the "95" sign is.
It is kind of nice to be able to get digital TV at anchor. A line of severe
storms is passing through and tornado watches span from the Carolinas down
into mid Florida. |
Someone got a photo of this waterspout just South of me.
I couldn't get any photos during the storm itself - too busy managing the
boat. |
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Dec 10th, 2008 - Aftermath of the Storm
Before the line of storms actually hit, the sailboat at
anchor with me got washed up in the Marsh. He was still floating when I
tried multiple times to make passes and use a line to get him off. He was
stuck too hard and the wind and current got too intense - had to rush off to
anchor myself just as the wall of the front hit us with intense 60 mph wind
gusts. They started about 10.30am and were gone by 1pm. |
After the storm I was able to contact Towboat US up on
Jekyl Island for Tom and Emily on Cygnet. We both have Verizon phones but
theirs had no signal and there was no response on the Marine Radio. My cell
was intermittent back here but I finally got through and gave them our
coordinates.. After they arrived they waited for the tide to lift the boat
some, and then managed to get them out undamaged. I stuck around all day just to ensure that they got the help that they needed, and was there
if they needed anything else. TowBoat U.S. got them off in the late
afternoon. I stayed the night at anchor and left the next morning. CLICK HERE for more photos (not yet linked)
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Interesting perspective. Here's Cygnet view of me at anchor
from their stern. |
It was nice back there once the storms passed. |
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This lady actually went airborne - fortunately wasn't hurt. |
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Although the winds stayed up pretty high this night and the
next day, the weather was otherwise very nice, and I had a quiet anchorage
all to myself this night. We're almost at a full moon tonight (right).
Really nice night after the storm. This is my third night out in the boonies
and I think I'm ready to check in somewhere.
(Wouldn't be so bad if it were warmer)
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I celebrated my friend's escape, and my luck, by being decadent and having a salad with whole fresh (frozen)
shrimp! (and of course accompanied by wine)
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Buenos Noches. Fue un Dia mas retador! En particular por
Yachte Cygnet!
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Tried to get out of the anchorage before 7am, but the high
winds dug in the anchor so deep that I had a REALLY difficult time getting
it up by myself. Finally prevailed after much work and left Shellbine Creek
by 7:15am, enroute to FLORIDA! - Amelia Island - Fernandina Beach is the
next stop!
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Along the Cumberland River, behind Cumberland Island. |
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Enroute to Fernandina Beach this morning, I passed SV Cygnet
again at anchor in a broad creek in the Marsh.
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I never knew there was this massive Navy facility behind
Cumberland Island. It's huge. It's fenced off with high fences (not the short
ones you see here) and warning signs all over.
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Look at this bunker-like building they have on the banks of
the Cumberland River - there is even a rotating radar antennae on top to
keep an eye on all of us boaters, and even aircraft.
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Still at anchor. |
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Entering Fernandina beach.
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Approaching Fernandina beach marina
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To my good fortune, they actually gave me a slip on the
inside behind this big casino cruise ship. With dock help I had no problem
coming in because it was a wind break (wind was VERY strong - making docking
difficult). I was going to pick up a
mooring buoy in the harbor, but it was still so windy that it was whitecapping in the harbor, and I didn't know that I could manage to pick up
a mooring buoy by myself, so I went in.
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S/V Cygnet makes it in to take a mooring ball not too long
after me.
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It stayed quite rough in the harbor all day long.
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Fernandina beach Marina. I may not be on a mooring but AT
LEAST I now have electricity for HEAT! - GREAT! The Satellite TV is good
too.
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coming in by dinghy from the mooring field.
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I AGREE! - except for the Coca Cola part.
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Local Police Boat. You can't see it here, but he was flying a
Pirate Flag from his tower.
Finally -- truth in advertising from the government.
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Harbor Sunset - Fernandina Beach - Amelia Island. |
The full moon is finally tonight!
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| This ends the Beaufort NC to Florida Segment. |
The GOOD NEWS is that Lisa joins me AGAIN
tomorrow !!!!!
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